Notebook: Three Days in Thailand with the charity Not For Sale. Witnessing sunsets, selflessness, smiles, tigers eyes and bright colours.
CUE THE SUNSET
I knew the story of Dave and Not For Sale, I read the book and had been in awe of Krunam and the team in Thailand from 5,500 miles away at AllSaints Studios in East London.
But having been here for just over three days, experiencing it, meeting the people behind the names, and pictures, I leave Chiang Rai with a new perspective entirely.
As I write this, I’m sat in the departures lounge of Chiang Rai International Airport.
I’d actually taken the opportunity to visit Japan a week ago, before catching a flight to Thailand to visit the children’s village and NFS Thailand project.
As I packed my suitcase this morning I thought back to the last time I did that leaving Tokyo on what was one of my favourite trips ever, I was on a high, overwhelmed by everyone’s kindness in Japan, the food, the shopping.
But it didn’t stay my favourite trip for long.
When I arrived at the hotel on the banks of the Mekong River, the sun was just about to set, I’d never seen a sunset like it, I didn’t realise it would go on to represent the end of a particular view of the world, in preparation for a new one.
THE 'S WORD'
I got to meet the legend that is Krunam, strong, kind, selfless, everything i thought she would be. She had some food with us at the hotel as we planned out the next days activity.
We would start at the beginning, a trip to a drop in centre around 45 minutes away, there we would meet Shaphiel (a rescued street kid, turned hero, now fighting and caring for the next generation of kids in danger - you find this selflessness a lot here) and Oot a uni graduate, who interned and decided this is what he wants to do full time (you see what I mean about selfless).
They took us in to Myanmar (Burma), and I saw what is, I’m sure, a much safer, but still intense, trip through some of the areas they work each day, meeting inspirational examples of the NFS x Krunam model working.
A Grandma - unable to cope following the drug related death of her daughter and son in law (you hear this a lot too), had 5 grandchildren to take care of, NFS saw these kids as high risk, and took 4 of them into the village, she hadn’t seen them in a year and a half, but you could tell she was happy they were doing well (there is that S word again - Selfless) - it turn out one is in boarding school already, and looking to follow in the footsteps of 3 other NFS Thailand university graduates!
The day was an eye opening look into what is happening at the front of the pipeline, its people like Shaphiel and Oot that have one of the toughest jobs, trying to educate the young kids they meet, about the dangers of drugs and the right paths to follow, whilst staying aware and poised to be able to pull out any kids they see as high risk.
THE OTHER 'S WORD'
Day two, still reeling from the sensory overload of Mayanmar, Shaphiel and Ood. I looked forward to visiting the NFS village, where I would finally meet the 50 or so kids that we had talked about on allsaints.com so often.
As we took a sharp right off the main road down a dirt track, I felt a little nervous. I now realised I wasn’t really sure what to expect.
We approached the house, and little curious heads started popping up over walls and porches, Dave wound down the window and yelled ‘sah wah dee khrap’ they knew exactly who it was, as ‘phee Dave’ was yelled back and kids began popping up from everywhere.
I don’t think I have seen so many smiles (a new S word for day two) in one place, ages from around 4 to 13 the kids here have been rescued out of danger and brought to the village to be safe, educated, loved, and given an environment they can grow, and live a life free from exploitation.
Little cheeky guys began to point out my tattoos, and point to their muscles, girls went shy, others simply beamed when you smiled at them.
After lots, and I mean lots, of dancing and running around, the whole group performed a ceremony to show their appreciation to us and NFS, it was obvious they knew exactly who NFS were, and they all delicately poured perfumed water and petals onto our hands and giggled with excitement when you splashed them with it. Groups of girls then went around and delicately placed some of the remaining petals in their hair (cute right?).
Krunam and the team had arranged a trip to a hot spring, so everyone piled into the back of three trucks, one two with a roof, one without. I wanted to throw myself head first into the experience, ‘why wouldn't you ride in the back of an open van with eight 5-9 year olds?’ (I mistakenly thought).
The convoy set off on its two hour journey, with Dave trailing the van I was in, every now and then the kids would notice and give him excited waves.
Singing songs, and making little propellers out of leafs they had pulled from a passing tree ensued, until the heavens opened and although the smiles never went away (there’s that other S word again), the singing was replaced with shelter, everyone getting huddled up to protect each other from the downpour.
I could that tell Dave (from the safety of the rent-a-car) was now having a little giggle to himself.
But it’s all about the experience right?
TIGERS EYE
Day three couldn’t come quickly enough, these little superstars had put the biggest smile on my face.
We arrived just in time for dancing and more games, the hugs were more frequent now, as was the sound of ‘Phee Dan’, followed by outstretched arms into the air (this seems to be Thai for, ‘hey, pick me up and shake me around until i giggle’), of course i obliged everytime.
In my entire time there I didn't see one tear, one tantrum or one kid looking alone. Older kids as well as young looked out for one and other, picking up when they bumped heads (often during the games, followed by more laughter and smiles), helping with washing the dishes after eating, bringing us green tea and bottles of water when we looked extra hot from the dancing.
You could also see that the games Krunam and the team introduced, all built confidence and inclusivity, whether it was a dance off (with some pretty good moves from the oldest and the youngest amongst the kids), to singing, and other group games.
A tie dye lesson later, where the remainder of the day was filled with blue hands, green hands, and green soles of feet (my fingernails are still slightly green as I type this), a birthday cake for Dave to celebrate 10 years commitment from Not For Sale to this project, is was time for diner.
Before we had to leave (a solid 12 hours after we got there in the morning), some of the kids gave us hand drawn cards, and pictures, saying they loved us and would miss us.
A few of the kids were asked to volunteer and say a few words (there’s that confidence building again) the theme was, ‘we love you’, ‘we miss you’, ‘thank you for making everyone smile’, ‘please dont forget about us’ - how can you not get tears in your eyes hearing that (impossible).
Heartfelt thank you notes, more hugs now that I’ve ever had, and a tigers eye ring engraved with the word ‘NAM’ from Krunam, and it was time to go.
It turns out my blue eyes were a talking point, and were being compared to a tiger (I’ll take that)
BRIGHT COLOURS
As I’ve said my goodbyes, it’s now possible to reflect on just what a huge impact this project is having, its not about short term kudos, or a sound bite that you can get a headline with. It's a slow burner, requiring years of patience, but the model is working, its proven, and is having a life transforming impact to children right now, I’ve met them - the past generations of people like Shaphiel and Gallow, the future generations of tiny little cheeky kids with beaming smiles and bright eyes, looking forward to the freedom to make their own futures.
I’ll conclude with a excerpt from an email I got from Dave a couple of hours after leaving Chiang Rai (the past 1461 words could have been summed up in the next 25
Nothing gives life such bright colours and deep meaning than a long term dedication to a cause bigger than oneself.
David Batstone
Looks like I’ve found mine.